History
This portion has been taken from The Imperial Gazetteer of India – Volume 19
- New edition, published under the authority of His Majesty's secretary of state for India in council. Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1908-1931 [v. 1, 1909]
Page 337 & 338
Reliable history does not date back beyond 1603, when the Raksel Rajputs were driven out by the Cheros under Bhagwant Rai, who took advantage of the local Raja's absence at a ceremony at Surguja to raise the standard of revolt. The Chero dynasty lasted for nearly 200 years, the most famous of the line being Medni Rai surnamed 'the just,' who ruled from 1659 to 1672 and extended his Raj into Gaya, Hazaribag, and Surguja.
The erection at Palamau of teh older of the two forts which form the only places of historical interest in the District is ascribed to him; the other, which was never completed, was begun by his son. These Rajas apparently ruled as indipendent princess till between 1640 and 1660, when the Muhammadans made several attacks on them and forced them to pay tribute. In the latter year occurred the attack on Palamau fort and its capture by Daud Khan, which forms the subject of a large picture (30 feet by 12) preserved by Daud's descendants and described in detail by Colonel Dalton in the Journal, Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1874.
In 1722 the ruling Raja, Ranjit Rai, was murdered, and Jay Kishan Rai, descended from the younger son of a former Raja, was placed upon the throne. A few years afterwards Jay Kishan was shot in skirmish, and his family fled to Megra in Bihar. Here they took refuge with one Udwant Ram, a Kanungo, who in 1770 took Gopal Rai, grandson of the murdered Raja, to Patna and presented him to Captain Camac, the Government Agent, as the rightful heir to the Palamau Raj. Captain Camac promised the assistance of the British Government and, after defeating the troops of the ruling Rajas gave a sanad for five years to Gopal Rai and two of his cousins. From this time Palamau was included in the British District of Ramgarh.
A year or two later, Gopal Rai was sentenced to imprisonment for being concerned in the murder of the Kanungo who helped him to power. He died in Patna in 1784, and in the same year died Basant Rai, who had succeeded to the gaddi on his imprisonment. Churaman*Rai succeeded; but by 1813 he had become insolvent, and Palamau was sold for arrears of revenue and bought in by the Government for the amount due. Three years later old disturbances between the Kharwars and Cheros were renewed, and Palamau was given to the Deo family in Gaya as a reward for their services in helping to quell them.
Their regime, however, was unpopular, and in a year the country was in open rebellion. So Government was again forced to take up the management of the estate, giving the Deo family as compensation a reduction of Rs. 3000 in the Bihar revenue payable on their estates in Bihar. In 1832 the Kharwars and Cheros again broke out in rebellion, but this rising was soon put down. There were not further troubles until the Mutiny of 1857, when the Kharwars rose against their Rajput landlords; and the mutineer of the Ramgarh Batatalion, taking refuge in Palamau made common cause with Nilambar and Pitambar Sigh, the malcontent landholders. The 26th Madras Native Infantry and a portion of the Ramgarh Battalion which had remained loyal defeated the insurgents at the Palamau forts. Nilambar and Pitambar Singh were taken prisoners and hanged. In 1834 Palamau was included in the District of Lohardaga (now Ranchi), and was only formed into a separate District in 1892.
Some Details of the Forts
This portion has been taken from Annual Report of the Archaeological Survey of India 1925 - 26
Page 30 & 31
Further work was also taken on hand on the two old Chero Forts at Palamu the Purana and the Naya Quila which date from the 17th century. A description of these Forts and a brief note on their history has been given in the report for the year 1922 - 23.
The forts are situated deep in the jungle of the forest reserve and repair work that has to be done for their preservation in the removal of the dense jungle growth that all but obstructs them. Substantial progress to this end was made in the previous two years against an estimate of Rs. 3557 but the work was far from complete and a sum of Rs. 1579 against a further estimate of Rs 4281 was spent during the year under review in constructing it. Great trees and thick jungle have been cleared from the encircling walls of the two forts and from a margin of some 10 feet along them both inside and out. Tall trees have been cut down and the work in hand aims at the removal of the great intertwining Pipal roots that spreads over and penetrate into them for unless they are removed the jungle will only spread again.
The conservation of the fort walls generally will be limited to the removal of this jungle for funds will not permit of their constructional repair. The main gates with their outworks and enclosed courts will however be kept up in sound structural condition. They are an interesting example of the fortifications of this period and the Nagpuri Gate of the New Fort has the further merit of being a particularly fine example of Early Mughal architecture. It is sadly ruined and almost everything but the actual archway itself has collapsed but such as remains is well worthy of preservation. The elaborate arabesques raised in relief of the outer facade of fine grained white sand stone are exquisitely wrought and are comparable with some of the best work at Agra.
The fall of the adjacent fabric has left exposed the outer abutment of this archway and it is proposed to erect a buttress against it fir its support.
Paths through the dense jungle in the interior of the forts have been cut and it is now possible to approach the remains of the several small palace buildings within the walls of the Old Fort. These buildings are generally too badly ruined to repair and it is proposed merely to keep them free of jungle and clear the debris from about them.
The Raja's Kuchari on the New Fort is generally in better condition and a few minor repairs will be put in had for its preservation. A path cut through the thick jungle up the hill side to the entrance of the New Fort has greatly facilitated access to it and it is learned that the jungle clearance effected here has induced many more people to visit the remains than formerly. It is of course impossible to clear the whole area within the walls and no more will be attempted than to maintain free of jungle the paths and margins that have already been cleared.
The small brick mosque situated close to the breach made in the wall of the Old Fort by the British in 1772 and through which one now enters the fort is also being preserved and the broken parapets and roof with its low triple dome are being made watertight and the undermined walls repaired.
Old Palamu Fort (Purana Quila)
Panoramic View of Old Palamu Fort
Fort Walls and Tower As Seen From the Road
As you enter and go towards the forts you will first find the fort atop a hill. This fort resembles quite like the Jailsalmer fort in terms of its outer design structures. Initially the fort remains well hidden behind tress but as you come closer you can feel the grandeur. It must be noted that the fort area also comes under the extended Betla forest so it’s not uncommon to see some wild animals around.
The fort is atop a small hill so you have to climb some steep hillside. It can be made out that originally there were stairs carved into the hill side but nature has taken its toll and most of them have completely vanished. I must also warn that some portion of the climb are pretty steep and very slippery.
From Main Road This Narrow Passage Takes You Top to the Fort
Most Portion of the Road Are Like This Full Of Stones
After about 15 minute climb we finally reached the main gate of the fort. This place is infested with Langurs thus one needs to be careful not to intimidate them. Avoid any direct confrontation with them as they usually do not disturb any human population. Do not feed them as that can cause more nuisance, if you feed one them whole group will come and you might get surrounded. Secure your bags, sunglasses, cameras etc. as these are easy snatching objects for the Langurs.
Langurs You Will Find Them Everywhere
Main Entrance to the Fort
Visually this fort is stunning as one can feel as if you are transported back to the 16th century and the trots of horses can be felt echoing in the distance. People hardly visit this fort as we were the only ones roaming around. Sometimes thought it felt bit eerie to find no other human soul around you.
Once inside the fort you can see that the entire fort was well fortified with very high and thick walls with watch towers in every directions. These watch towers were very effective in watching advancing army in the distance. This I also the very reason why the Cheros had managed to repel so many attacks by the Mughal Generals.
This Portion Is Actually In-Between the Walls That Fortify the Fort
The Main Courtyard
The Main Courtyard
Walls inside the Fort
One of the Main Room Still Existing In the Fort
Interiors of the Room
Many portion of the fort have collapsed due to the complete lack of maintenance thus you need to be very careful when navigating through the broken stair cases.
We also spotted a temple in the highest point of the fort, the stones covered in vermilion and the red flags suggest that the villagers still pray here.
View from Top towards Betla Forest Range
Walkways On Top Of the Fortifying Walls
View of Auranga River from the Top of the Fort
The Centre of the Fort Completely In Shambles
Archway On Top Of the Fort Walls
Narrow Staircase Which Connects the Courtyard to the Top of the Fort
The whole fort complex is quite huge thus would suggest you give it enough time ideally a day specifically for each of the fort if you are seriously interested in history.
One needs to be extra careful when climbing down as there are high chances of slipping. All three of us slipped at least once while climbing down. Jokingly we called this incident “curse of the Cheros”.
Light and Shadow
Architecture of the Central Main Building
Entrance to the Main Building
Stairs Leading From the Main Building to the Roof
Tunnel to the Roof
The Red Flags Marking Some Holy Spot – Locals Still Pray Here
New Palamu Fort (Naya Quila)
Panoramic View of the New Fort
As you drive another 1000 feet you will reach second fort which is mostly talked about and most of the Palamu Fort images on Google refer to this.
On the left of the main entrance gate (Nagpuri Gate) you will find a ruined mosque. I am assuming this was built after the conquest of Daud Khan since its structure are much newer to that of the fort.
The main Nagouri Gate is a true architect’s delight, the Minakari works can be still seen thus depicts the diversity of the Chero rulers in incorporation of architectural styles from across the country.
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Meenakari Design on the Nagpuri Gate
Mosque – North of the Nagpuri Gate
The main gate had huge wooden doors but are missing now, the hinge position can still be seen and one needs to assume the enormity of the entire structure.
Once inside you come to the first holding area, on the left wall there is a small doorway that leads to the watch towers. One needs to assume that these were used by the soldiers to defend the fort when it came under attack.*
On the right you will find the entrance to the main courtyard of the fort. Surprisingly you will find another small mosque here. Looking at the position of this structure you can safely assume that this was built later as this particular structure is not in sync with the overall design of the fort. In most probability this was built after the conquest by Daud Khan.
Holding Area after the Nagpuri Gate
Mosque in the Courtyard
Interior of the Mosque
Interior of the Mosque
Moving forward you will find the water well as described in the history books this was done to keep the fort self-sufficient so that during war there would not be any problem of accessing fresh water.
Most of the walls surrounding the fort have either fallen down or dangerously tilted thus one needs to be extra careful when moving around. Another nuisance is that of wild plants and grass growing all around, there is a constant threat of snakes and wild animals also. The next day we were told that a tiger had been spotted by the villages behind the fort and it had attacked a herd of cows. Keep stomping your feet and carry a stick around. During the rainy season I am sure most portion will become inaccessible due to the growth of wild plants.
One of the Water Well
Inside of the Water Well
It will take some energy to climb the steeper section of the southern part of the fort but the climb is worth it considering that you will get some of the most fantastic views from here. You can also get a panoramic view of the Fort on top of the hill.
This fort will also take some considerable time to see through thus it’s recommended to give it a day if you really like old torn down structures with architectural value.
Second Gate inside the Fort
Design on the Wall
Second Well Inside the Fort
Passage Leading To the Watch Towers
Most Portions of the Watchtower Have Fallen Off
Remaining Watch Towers
Stairs Leading to the Top of Nagpuri Gate
Structures above Nagpuri Gate
Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls
Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls
View of the First Fort from the Second Fort
Amitabha Busy Shooting
Many of the Broken Structures
A Two Storied Structure Still Standing Within the Fort
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
An Unidentified Piece of Stone within the Two Stored Structure
By now it was evening and it was time to return to our hotel .We were the only group of tourist and our driver Aftab was visible worried. When asked he confirmed that he did not fear wild animals but feared the “Bade Bhaiyas” more. By this he meant the local insurgents who still dominates this territory.
BY 6 PM the entire locality has shut down so it’s advisable to buy anything from local much before that. Anyways you get very basic items in the shop so it’s recommended to carry snacks etc. along with you from Ranchi.
Dinner at the hotel was served at 9.30 PM and we had the option of rice, daal, potato fry, mixed vegetable and chicken curry. Additionally you can also pre order evening snacks but for that you have to give them enough time to get it prepared.
This portion has been taken from The Imperial Gazetteer of India – Volume 19
- New edition, published under the authority of His Majesty's secretary of state for India in council. Oxford, Clarendon Press, 1908-1931 [v. 1, 1909]
Page 337 & 338
Reliable history does not date back beyond 1603, when the Raksel Rajputs were driven out by the Cheros under Bhagwant Rai, who took advantage of the local Raja's absence at a ceremony at Surguja to raise the standard of revolt. The Chero dynasty lasted for nearly 200 years, the most famous of the line being Medni Rai surnamed 'the just,' who ruled from 1659 to 1672 and extended his Raj into Gaya, Hazaribag, and Surguja.
The erection at Palamau of teh older of the two forts which form the only places of historical interest in the District is ascribed to him; the other, which was never completed, was begun by his son. These Rajas apparently ruled as indipendent princess till between 1640 and 1660, when the Muhammadans made several attacks on them and forced them to pay tribute. In the latter year occurred the attack on Palamau fort and its capture by Daud Khan, which forms the subject of a large picture (30 feet by 12) preserved by Daud's descendants and described in detail by Colonel Dalton in the Journal, Asiatic Society of Bengal, 1874.
In 1722 the ruling Raja, Ranjit Rai, was murdered, and Jay Kishan Rai, descended from the younger son of a former Raja, was placed upon the throne. A few years afterwards Jay Kishan was shot in skirmish, and his family fled to Megra in Bihar. Here they took refuge with one Udwant Ram, a Kanungo, who in 1770 took Gopal Rai, grandson of the murdered Raja, to Patna and presented him to Captain Camac, the Government Agent, as the rightful heir to the Palamau Raj. Captain Camac promised the assistance of the British Government and, after defeating the troops of the ruling Rajas gave a sanad for five years to Gopal Rai and two of his cousins. From this time Palamau was included in the British District of Ramgarh.
A year or two later, Gopal Rai was sentenced to imprisonment for being concerned in the murder of the Kanungo who helped him to power. He died in Patna in 1784, and in the same year died Basant Rai, who had succeeded to the gaddi on his imprisonment. Churaman*Rai succeeded; but by 1813 he had become insolvent, and Palamau was sold for arrears of revenue and bought in by the Government for the amount due. Three years later old disturbances between the Kharwars and Cheros were renewed, and Palamau was given to the Deo family in Gaya as a reward for their services in helping to quell them.
Their regime, however, was unpopular, and in a year the country was in open rebellion. So Government was again forced to take up the management of the estate, giving the Deo family as compensation a reduction of Rs. 3000 in the Bihar revenue payable on their estates in Bihar. In 1832 the Kharwars and Cheros again broke out in rebellion, but this rising was soon put down. There were not further troubles until the Mutiny of 1857, when the Kharwars rose against their Rajput landlords; and the mutineer of the Ramgarh Batatalion, taking refuge in Palamau made common cause with Nilambar and Pitambar Sigh, the malcontent landholders. The 26th Madras Native Infantry and a portion of the Ramgarh Battalion which had remained loyal defeated the insurgents at the Palamau forts. Nilambar and Pitambar Singh were taken prisoners and hanged. In 1834 Palamau was included in the District of Lohardaga (now Ranchi), and was only formed into a separate District in 1892.
Some Details of the Forts
This portion has been taken from Annual Report of the Archaeological Survey of India 1925 - 26
Page 30 & 31
Further work was also taken on hand on the two old Chero Forts at Palamu the Purana and the Naya Quila which date from the 17th century. A description of these Forts and a brief note on their history has been given in the report for the year 1922 - 23.
The forts are situated deep in the jungle of the forest reserve and repair work that has to be done for their preservation in the removal of the dense jungle growth that all but obstructs them. Substantial progress to this end was made in the previous two years against an estimate of Rs. 3557 but the work was far from complete and a sum of Rs. 1579 against a further estimate of Rs 4281 was spent during the year under review in constructing it. Great trees and thick jungle have been cleared from the encircling walls of the two forts and from a margin of some 10 feet along them both inside and out. Tall trees have been cut down and the work in hand aims at the removal of the great intertwining Pipal roots that spreads over and penetrate into them for unless they are removed the jungle will only spread again.
The conservation of the fort walls generally will be limited to the removal of this jungle for funds will not permit of their constructional repair. The main gates with their outworks and enclosed courts will however be kept up in sound structural condition. They are an interesting example of the fortifications of this period and the Nagpuri Gate of the New Fort has the further merit of being a particularly fine example of Early Mughal architecture. It is sadly ruined and almost everything but the actual archway itself has collapsed but such as remains is well worthy of preservation. The elaborate arabesques raised in relief of the outer facade of fine grained white sand stone are exquisitely wrought and are comparable with some of the best work at Agra.
The fall of the adjacent fabric has left exposed the outer abutment of this archway and it is proposed to erect a buttress against it fir its support.
Paths through the dense jungle in the interior of the forts have been cut and it is now possible to approach the remains of the several small palace buildings within the walls of the Old Fort. These buildings are generally too badly ruined to repair and it is proposed merely to keep them free of jungle and clear the debris from about them.
The Raja's Kuchari on the New Fort is generally in better condition and a few minor repairs will be put in had for its preservation. A path cut through the thick jungle up the hill side to the entrance of the New Fort has greatly facilitated access to it and it is learned that the jungle clearance effected here has induced many more people to visit the remains than formerly. It is of course impossible to clear the whole area within the walls and no more will be attempted than to maintain free of jungle the paths and margins that have already been cleared.
The small brick mosque situated close to the breach made in the wall of the Old Fort by the British in 1772 and through which one now enters the fort is also being preserved and the broken parapets and roof with its low triple dome are being made watertight and the undermined walls repaired.
Old Palamu Fort (Purana Quila)
Panoramic View of Old Palamu Fort
Fort Walls and Tower As Seen From the Road
As you enter and go towards the forts you will first find the fort atop a hill. This fort resembles quite like the Jailsalmer fort in terms of its outer design structures. Initially the fort remains well hidden behind tress but as you come closer you can feel the grandeur. It must be noted that the fort area also comes under the extended Betla forest so it’s not uncommon to see some wild animals around.
The fort is atop a small hill so you have to climb some steep hillside. It can be made out that originally there were stairs carved into the hill side but nature has taken its toll and most of them have completely vanished. I must also warn that some portion of the climb are pretty steep and very slippery.
From Main Road This Narrow Passage Takes You Top to the Fort
Most Portion of the Road Are Like This Full Of Stones
After about 15 minute climb we finally reached the main gate of the fort. This place is infested with Langurs thus one needs to be careful not to intimidate them. Avoid any direct confrontation with them as they usually do not disturb any human population. Do not feed them as that can cause more nuisance, if you feed one them whole group will come and you might get surrounded. Secure your bags, sunglasses, cameras etc. as these are easy snatching objects for the Langurs.
Langurs You Will Find Them Everywhere
Main Entrance to the Fort
Visually this fort is stunning as one can feel as if you are transported back to the 16th century and the trots of horses can be felt echoing in the distance. People hardly visit this fort as we were the only ones roaming around. Sometimes thought it felt bit eerie to find no other human soul around you.
Once inside the fort you can see that the entire fort was well fortified with very high and thick walls with watch towers in every directions. These watch towers were very effective in watching advancing army in the distance. This I also the very reason why the Cheros had managed to repel so many attacks by the Mughal Generals.
This Portion Is Actually In-Between the Walls That Fortify the Fort
The Main Courtyard
The Main Courtyard
Walls inside the Fort
One of the Main Room Still Existing In the Fort
Interiors of the Room
Many portion of the fort have collapsed due to the complete lack of maintenance thus you need to be very careful when navigating through the broken stair cases.
We also spotted a temple in the highest point of the fort, the stones covered in vermilion and the red flags suggest that the villagers still pray here.
View from Top towards Betla Forest Range
Walkways On Top Of the Fortifying Walls
View of Auranga River from the Top of the Fort
The Centre of the Fort Completely In Shambles
Archway On Top Of the Fort Walls
Narrow Staircase Which Connects the Courtyard to the Top of the Fort
The whole fort complex is quite huge thus would suggest you give it enough time ideally a day specifically for each of the fort if you are seriously interested in history.
One needs to be extra careful when climbing down as there are high chances of slipping. All three of us slipped at least once while climbing down. Jokingly we called this incident “curse of the Cheros”.
Light and Shadow
Architecture of the Central Main Building
Entrance to the Main Building
Stairs Leading From the Main Building to the Roof
Tunnel to the Roof
The Red Flags Marking Some Holy Spot – Locals Still Pray Here
New Palamu Fort (Naya Quila)
Panoramic View of the New Fort
As you drive another 1000 feet you will reach second fort which is mostly talked about and most of the Palamu Fort images on Google refer to this.
On the left of the main entrance gate (Nagpuri Gate) you will find a ruined mosque. I am assuming this was built after the conquest of Daud Khan since its structure are much newer to that of the fort.
The main Nagouri Gate is a true architect’s delight, the Minakari works can be still seen thus depicts the diversity of the Chero rulers in incorporation of architectural styles from across the country.
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Nagpuri Gate – Entrance to the Old Fort
Meenakari Design on the Nagpuri Gate
Mosque – North of the Nagpuri Gate
The main gate had huge wooden doors but are missing now, the hinge position can still be seen and one needs to assume the enormity of the entire structure.
Once inside you come to the first holding area, on the left wall there is a small doorway that leads to the watch towers. One needs to assume that these were used by the soldiers to defend the fort when it came under attack.*
On the right you will find the entrance to the main courtyard of the fort. Surprisingly you will find another small mosque here. Looking at the position of this structure you can safely assume that this was built later as this particular structure is not in sync with the overall design of the fort. In most probability this was built after the conquest by Daud Khan.
Holding Area after the Nagpuri Gate
Mosque in the Courtyard
Interior of the Mosque
Interior of the Mosque
Moving forward you will find the water well as described in the history books this was done to keep the fort self-sufficient so that during war there would not be any problem of accessing fresh water.
Most of the walls surrounding the fort have either fallen down or dangerously tilted thus one needs to be extra careful when moving around. Another nuisance is that of wild plants and grass growing all around, there is a constant threat of snakes and wild animals also. The next day we were told that a tiger had been spotted by the villages behind the fort and it had attacked a herd of cows. Keep stomping your feet and carry a stick around. During the rainy season I am sure most portion will become inaccessible due to the growth of wild plants.
One of the Water Well
Inside of the Water Well
It will take some energy to climb the steeper section of the southern part of the fort but the climb is worth it considering that you will get some of the most fantastic views from here. You can also get a panoramic view of the Fort on top of the hill.
This fort will also take some considerable time to see through thus it’s recommended to give it a day if you really like old torn down structures with architectural value.
Second Gate inside the Fort
Design on the Wall
Second Well Inside the Fort
Passage Leading To the Watch Towers
Most Portions of the Watchtower Have Fallen Off
Remaining Watch Towers
Stairs Leading to the Top of Nagpuri Gate
Structures above Nagpuri Gate
Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls
Interconnecting Passages On Top Of the Fort Walls
View of the First Fort from the Second Fort
Amitabha Busy Shooting
Many of the Broken Structures
A Two Storied Structure Still Standing Within the Fort
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
Interiors of the Two Storied Structure
An Unidentified Piece of Stone within the Two Stored Structure
By now it was evening and it was time to return to our hotel .We were the only group of tourist and our driver Aftab was visible worried. When asked he confirmed that he did not fear wild animals but feared the “Bade Bhaiyas” more. By this he meant the local insurgents who still dominates this territory.
BY 6 PM the entire locality has shut down so it’s advisable to buy anything from local much before that. Anyways you get very basic items in the shop so it’s recommended to carry snacks etc. along with you from Ranchi.
Dinner at the hotel was served at 9.30 PM and we had the option of rice, daal, potato fry, mixed vegetable and chicken curry. Additionally you can also pre order evening snacks but for that you have to give them enough time to get it prepared.
